Sometime today I'll start looking at pictures that I didn't get to post, and insert a few here/facebook/picasaweb.
Jon and I are certainly zonked. We were happy to see Beth, and of course the puppies... they were well prepped by Beth to know we were coming home and didn't seem excessivly surprised that we walked up to Beth's truck when we did. It was cute.
We're ever so thankful for her staying over with them. The place looks great (cleaner in spots than it has been in ages!) and the doggies are content and stress free. We owe her immensely - and the Kapler family too for taking over for a couple of days in the middle there.
Yesterday was composed of getting up, having pancakes, sorting out some errands online (bills, etc), lunch with Jayne, washing the car, and making our way back home. We stopped by Sobey's and picked up a mock Paris lunch of ham, cheese, baguette, and the essentials we're out of like milk, bread, and eggs. Jayne joined us after work and we swapped catch-up stories and watched some of the episodes of Amazing Race we missed. Their cross-world races and jaunts remind me a little of what we returned from, and I now more than ever know that show would kick the butts of anyone who wasn't seriously fit. It made me tired watching it...
So since the plane ride home I've been battling a bug. It's no fun. I'm happy to have Pepto, a bed, and a bathroom nearby, and thankfully work doesn't expect me until Monday. On top of jet lag I'm a grumbily tummy lady and I'm none too pleased. At least it didn't hit while I was IN Europe, like it did Jon in Prague. Jon is at work today - the poor dude. I expect him home early.
While I'm happy to be home it's certainly a little surreal. I can empathize with my parents, who never seem to have that 'home' landing base for long. I wonder if their routines just have to be what ground them, no matter the country. That's a reality I can only somewhat relate to it seems.
The rest of today should be putting my bag away, washing everything I wore there (it's nice having different clothes to choose from!), and getting the house back to where it was only 36 hours ago when Beth was the only one here.
Maybe a nap first.
Thanks for reading (and for the few comments too - more next time please :-)
-Rea
Friday, October 17, 2008
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Back in Calgary.
We made it back in one piece after about 14 hours in the air and 3 hours in Chicago O'Hare. I think it is about 6AM tomorrow body time, so I don't think I will last much longer before going to bed. Beth picked us up from the airport with the puppies and it was great to see them all. Thanks to her so much for house/dog sitting.
Next week I am going to Los Angeles for a conference (Rea gets to play the single girl while I am gone) so I guess I might post some more about what I see down there. As it will be a technology conference I don't expect too much worthy of this blog will be coming up, but you never know!
Thanks everyone for reading, it really was neat to see who was following along and to read the comments. It makes keeping a blog like this worth it.
Next week I am going to Los Angeles for a conference (Rea gets to play the single girl while I am gone) so I guess I might post some more about what I see down there. As it will be a technology conference I don't expect too much worthy of this blog will be coming up, but you never know!
Thanks everyone for reading, it really was neat to see who was following along and to read the comments. It makes keeping a blog like this worth it.
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Took to the last day...
This afternoon after the Catacombs tour Rea decided that she wanted to visit this department store in East Paris (Barbes-Rochechouart station for those who were wondering) that we saw on the train one day. Needless to say it was not in a good part of town, and there were lots of guys trying to sell Marlboro cigarettes in front of the train station which was completely bizarre. We walked through the crowd and went to the store which was a disappointment.
On the way back to the station, Rea and Caroline went through the turnstile on the left and I went through the one on the right. I had my wallet out earlier to get tickets out, so I think that was probably what marked me. Quickly this dude bumps in front of me trying to get through and I thought that it was kind of fishy. I suddenly felt a movement in my front right pocket (where I keep my wallet). Quickly I reached down and I grab the guy's hand and slaped it. He quickly runs up a little further and fakes getting rejected by the turnstile and runs away saying "sorry sorry sorry". I gave him the stank eye and quickly looked at his hands and couldn't see anything in them.
Initially I thought I had lost my wallet, but since I didn't see it in his hand I checked my pocket again and it was still there. After the turnstile Rea and I said to each other that it appeared that was a typical pick pocket ruse and we turned around and flicked off the guys still standing on the other side of the turnstile. They were all well dressed nice looking middle eastern guys.
You know since there was only a credit card, debit card and about 20 Euro in cash in the wallet I was not too pissed off and actually considered it a interesting experience. Especially since I got to tell the guy to f*ck off. Also since it was the last day of the trip it wouldn't have been that big of a deal. Good story though...
On the way home later in the evening we noticed that police were at that station and had busted up the guys selling the cigarettes and hopefully the pick pockets.
So, dear readers, when in Europe as everywhere else in the world, keep an eye out for
your personal belongings and remain observant of your surroundings. Use a money belt to store your passports, large cash bills and other important things. Also, don't let petty thieves spoil your trip if you do get ripped off because at least you have an interesting story to tell. :-)
On the way back to the station, Rea and Caroline went through the turnstile on the left and I went through the one on the right. I had my wallet out earlier to get tickets out, so I think that was probably what marked me. Quickly this dude bumps in front of me trying to get through and I thought that it was kind of fishy. I suddenly felt a movement in my front right pocket (where I keep my wallet). Quickly I reached down and I grab the guy's hand and slaped it. He quickly runs up a little further and fakes getting rejected by the turnstile and runs away saying "sorry sorry sorry". I gave him the stank eye and quickly looked at his hands and couldn't see anything in them.
Initially I thought I had lost my wallet, but since I didn't see it in his hand I checked my pocket again and it was still there. After the turnstile Rea and I said to each other that it appeared that was a typical pick pocket ruse and we turned around and flicked off the guys still standing on the other side of the turnstile. They were all well dressed nice looking middle eastern guys.
You know since there was only a credit card, debit card and about 20 Euro in cash in the wallet I was not too pissed off and actually considered it a interesting experience. Especially since I got to tell the guy to f*ck off. Also since it was the last day of the trip it wouldn't have been that big of a deal. Good story though...
On the way home later in the evening we noticed that police were at that station and had busted up the guys selling the cigarettes and hopefully the pick pockets.
So, dear readers, when in Europe as everywhere else in the world, keep an eye out for
your personal belongings and remain observant of your surroundings. Use a money belt to store your passports, large cash bills and other important things. Also, don't let petty thieves spoil your trip if you do get ripped off because at least you have an interesting story to tell. :-)
All good things must come to an end...
Today is the last day of our trip in Europe. Tomorrow morning we fly home at 11:15AM from CDG airport here in Paris. I think today we are going to go see the catacombs and maybe bop around town some. We are staying at Caroline's brother's place with her, so I think we are doing a day late Thanksgiving dinner tonight as well. I think that all depends on the availability of turkey and/or chicken at the grocery store.
Paris was a good place to end the trip, especially with 5 days in which to take in the sites via a sane and less wearying approach. I would have liked to get to Versailles, but as Rick Steves says, I will just have to plan to come back. Next time I think we might rent bikes in the bigger city to help with the commuting to the sites as walking and metro is effective but pretty tiring after a while.
Speaking of tiring, I think we have both lost about 10 pounds and stairs are no longer as daunting as they were at the beginning of the trip (even with the 15 kilo packs on our backs). I hope we can somehow continue this level of activity at home, but I think that might be pretty challenging. I guess lots of dog walks and maybe a treadmill?
At the end of the day, this trip was awesome. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Other than the night train from Milan to Paris I don't think I had one bad experience the entire time (and really that wasn't so bad either, it was just kind of irritating). Sure, there were some exhausting moments, but they were worth it in the long run. I think everyone should have an experience like this, traveling to another place and seeing how the other side lives.
What is next for the traveling Sauters? I think there is a trip planned to New York next October, but other than that nothing is in the works. I would like to visit some of the places we did on this trip again and spend some more time there, but then I also would like to see Croatia, China, Morocco and about 10 other places. I suppose we will have to see where life takes us now!
Paris was a good place to end the trip, especially with 5 days in which to take in the sites via a sane and less wearying approach. I would have liked to get to Versailles, but as Rick Steves says, I will just have to plan to come back. Next time I think we might rent bikes in the bigger city to help with the commuting to the sites as walking and metro is effective but pretty tiring after a while.
Speaking of tiring, I think we have both lost about 10 pounds and stairs are no longer as daunting as they were at the beginning of the trip (even with the 15 kilo packs on our backs). I hope we can somehow continue this level of activity at home, but I think that might be pretty challenging. I guess lots of dog walks and maybe a treadmill?
At the end of the day, this trip was awesome. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Other than the night train from Milan to Paris I don't think I had one bad experience the entire time (and really that wasn't so bad either, it was just kind of irritating). Sure, there were some exhausting moments, but they were worth it in the long run. I think everyone should have an experience like this, traveling to another place and seeing how the other side lives.
What is next for the traveling Sauters? I think there is a trip planned to New York next October, but other than that nothing is in the works. I would like to visit some of the places we did on this trip again and spend some more time there, but then I also would like to see Croatia, China, Morocco and about 10 other places. I suppose we will have to see where life takes us now!
Monday, October 13, 2008
Blogging from Under the Eiffel Tower
Paris has free wifi in parks. It is a really good idea, and it is surprisingly fast. Faster then the for pay wifi we could get in our room.
We are sitting in the park under neath the Eiffel Tower and it is a very nice day out. We waited in the line and went up to the second floor to see the view. The line up to the top was long, and the haze and lack of cash on us prevented us from going to the top. No big deal, maybe next time we are in the city!
We are sitting in the park under neath the Eiffel Tower and it is a very nice day out. We waited in the line and went up to the second floor to see the view. The line up to the top was long, and the haze and lack of cash on us prevented us from going to the top. No big deal, maybe next time we are in the city!
Sunday, October 12, 2008
Greatest Invention Ever
In Europe you can buy condensed milk in a toothpaste tube. I think that is right up there with antibiotics and the time machine as Man's greatest invention.
By adding two Nescafe sleeves, sugar, cold water and a disturbing squeeze of condensed milk to make coffee coolers for the road. It sure beats 5 Euro coffees at a cafe.
I wonder if they sell it in North America in that delivery mechanism...
By adding two Nescafe sleeves, sugar, cold water and a disturbing squeeze of condensed milk to make coffee coolers for the road. It sure beats 5 Euro coffees at a cafe.
I wonder if they sell it in North America in that delivery mechanism...
Saturday, October 11, 2008
Zees Internets Sucks Too
Wow- we paid about $10 for 24 hours of wi fi... but my ipod can't connect, and I can't upload pictures for the life of me.
Bah.
We've taken some good'ers though and are looking forward to sharing.
Tomorrow we make more good use of our Museum Pass and will take in the tower at Notre Dame, and some other stuff. We've walked SO much, my feet are in constant ache, but it's short lived pain, right?
I thought it was cute that Jon let me take an unplanned nap on a bench at the Museum today. It probably saved the day :-)
G'night folks.
-Rea
Bah.
We've taken some good'ers though and are looking forward to sharing.
Tomorrow we make more good use of our Museum Pass and will take in the tower at Notre Dame, and some other stuff. We've walked SO much, my feet are in constant ache, but it's short lived pain, right?
I thought it was cute that Jon let me take an unplanned nap on a bench at the Museum today. It probably saved the day :-)
G'night folks.
-Rea
Thoughts from Rea
Jon and I have decided that my parents are retiring in Italy; they just don't know it yet. Camogli, the bigger town just before the national park we visited known as the Cinque Terre, will be where they settle down to a relaxed life of wine, no lawn, and visits from friends who want to share the 'chillaxed environment with them. Truly, this little area speaks to those who like to sit back and listen to the sea, visit the market, and meet with friends along the main street at night to catch up on gossip and see how the bambinos are doing.
Another reason I believe my parents would enjoy it? Cooked foods are made with LOTS of salt. Everything we had from pizza to fully prepared seafood pasta was super salty. It was only when I didn't have butter for the table bread that I pulled a 'Larry' (tee hee) and salted my bread. After some parched dining, I crafted my “Italian” of equivalent “Salt Added” as “non se additionalle, prego.” I wonder if that would work?
In a moment of relaxed perfection, Jon and I went swimming in the harbour photographed in all the Vernazza postcards. It was crisp, clean, and even the little fishies decided to nibble amongst the rocks near where we left our towels/shoes. Others were sunbathing on their own large, flat, rock – content to occasionally take a dip in the ocean or change right back into their clothes before heading off to dinner... those voyeur Germans ;-)
The area was flooded with Americans, Aussies, and Canadians for the English speaking set. Others, especially Germans, were spotted because of their tans, their skin (flaunted, especially at water's side), and by their dogs. It's really easy for European families to take their dogs on trains or in their cars to any point in the EU, so 8 times out of 10 anyone with a dog doesn't speak English as their first language. There have been at least 15 dogs I personally want to cuddle and take home with me :-)
Speaking of English. As much as I have, for many years, felt the ignorant moron of North America by speaking only one language fluently (though my French ain't bad!), it does indeed seem to be the bridging language. When the Dutch or Germans were trying to converse with other non-whatever speaking EU citizens, they seemed to resort to English to bridge the gap. Our hostess in Bacharach Germany had an interesting story to tell... while she was working with a Hotel in Germany, a guest who spoke French asked for directions. She spoke German, Dutch, and English – but no French. After asking him if he could converse in any of those, and him assuring her he couldn't, she worked hard in sign language and any form of communication possible to communicate the directions to his destination. After what seemed like forever, she was sure he understood where he had to go. The most frustrating part? This French gentleman's colleague came out from the business meeting and spoke perfect English to this man – and in perfect English he responded. So, as much as he was being 'high and mighty' to claim he didn't know any English, he wasted both her time and his with sheer obstinence. She was nonetheless livid, so the reputation of the French lives on even when English isn't necessarily the topic of conversation.
Another reason I believe my parents would enjoy it? Cooked foods are made with LOTS of salt. Everything we had from pizza to fully prepared seafood pasta was super salty. It was only when I didn't have butter for the table bread that I pulled a 'Larry' (tee hee) and salted my bread. After some parched dining, I crafted my “Italian” of equivalent “Salt Added” as “non se additionalle, prego.” I wonder if that would work?
In a moment of relaxed perfection, Jon and I went swimming in the harbour photographed in all the Vernazza postcards. It was crisp, clean, and even the little fishies decided to nibble amongst the rocks near where we left our towels/shoes. Others were sunbathing on their own large, flat, rock – content to occasionally take a dip in the ocean or change right back into their clothes before heading off to dinner... those voyeur Germans ;-)
The area was flooded with Americans, Aussies, and Canadians for the English speaking set. Others, especially Germans, were spotted because of their tans, their skin (flaunted, especially at water's side), and by their dogs. It's really easy for European families to take their dogs on trains or in their cars to any point in the EU, so 8 times out of 10 anyone with a dog doesn't speak English as their first language. There have been at least 15 dogs I personally want to cuddle and take home with me :-)
Speaking of English. As much as I have, for many years, felt the ignorant moron of North America by speaking only one language fluently (though my French ain't bad!), it does indeed seem to be the bridging language. When the Dutch or Germans were trying to converse with other non-whatever speaking EU citizens, they seemed to resort to English to bridge the gap. Our hostess in Bacharach Germany had an interesting story to tell... while she was working with a Hotel in Germany, a guest who spoke French asked for directions. She spoke German, Dutch, and English – but no French. After asking him if he could converse in any of those, and him assuring her he couldn't, she worked hard in sign language and any form of communication possible to communicate the directions to his destination. After what seemed like forever, she was sure he understood where he had to go. The most frustrating part? This French gentleman's colleague came out from the business meeting and spoke perfect English to this man – and in perfect English he responded. So, as much as he was being 'high and mighty' to claim he didn't know any English, he wasted both her time and his with sheer obstinence. She was nonetheless livid, so the reputation of the French lives on even when English isn't necessarily the topic of conversation.
Train from Vernazza to Paris and the first Days in Paris
Sorry for the last few days of radio silence but we have had trouble finding free internet in Paris. We bought a 24 hour wireless service here so we should be good for the next day!
The trip from Vernazza Italy to Paris was probably the low point of the trip thus far. It was sort of a culmination of several poor decisions that ended up with us having a rather sleepless night, but at least we got here.
To sum it up, we took the train from Vernazza to Milan around 3PM to get there to help resolve some issues with the Eurail Pass we have because I noticed that the night train from Milan to Paris MIGHT be going through Switzerland which would be a problem since it was not part of our pass. I discovered in Milan that they had no idea how it worked and it would end up being up to the conductor on the train to bill us the extra if needed. The initial booking for the night train had us transferring in Dijon France, which was nice as it was to a high speed train, but it didn't make sense as the night train was going to Paris anyhow. I decided to ask about staying on as it in theory didn't anymore cost difference to the train company.
After waiting for 4 hours for our train to show up at 1130PM we get on and discover that the couchette I had booked was full with 6 people (including us) and that makes for a very tight space. I also asked the conductor if the Switzerland thing would be OK and in broken English he said no problem. In regards to the staying on instead of transferring in Dijon, he said we could stay on (at least I thought he did). The conductor then took our passports (standard operating procedure) for safe keeping and then left.
We had the bottom bunks, which are actually just chairs that fold over. In hind site I would book the middle or upper bunks as they were a lot less claustrophobic. The cabin at least was well air conditioned so we were not suffering with sweat. It was very tight though with my face literally 1 foot away from the bunk above me and no room to move my arms or legs. I was almost too tall as well. Rea was pinned the other way, but she seemed to fit a bit better then me. I would highly recommend to anyone NOT to book a night train on a couchette if you want to get a good nights rest. As well, make sure you have ear plugs and eye covers out as well as it is very difficult to find them in the dark and not wake everyone else up. I suffered with just covering my eyes with the blanket and listening to Jack Johnson music until I fell asleep (the most mellow thing on my iPod).
At 4AM the conductor came to wake us up for the Dijon transfer. My reaction was “WTF???”. We managed to get a bunk mate to translate for us and he then said “no problem” once again.
At 8AM he came back to give us our passports back and said that he needed 25 Euro. I am not sure why he wanted the money but I paid him as I really liked the idea of getting my documents back and I couldn't negotiate in Italian with him. I think it ended up being a bribe for staying on the train and us being not Italian. Our fellow bunk mates said that it was actually fairly common. Really really a piss off though. We did get a bogus looking receipt from him for the money that I will have to check the name on to see if he put his name as a baseball player or something. If I ever see him in Calgary looking for directions to Lake Louise I will point him in the way of Regina as revenge.
We did arrive in Paris in the morning however, and did manage to find and check into our place at the Perfect Hotel near Sacre Coeur. While it is indeed not perfect, it is cheap, does not seem to have bed bugs and has a private bath. It is close to the red light district as well as some nice shopping areas. I would recommend it if you are OK with peeling wallpaper, bare light bulbs and a view of a wall. Which we are perfectly fine with. Maybe that is where they got the name from...
First day in Paris involved wearily trudging up the hill to visit Sacre Coeur and Montmartre which was really nice. The church was very pretty and cool as it looked old but was really very modern (in comparison to the other churches we have been in). There was a wine festival going on so we got to wander around and watch the people of Paris having a good time. There were the String Men trying to be pushy with the “friendship bracelet” scam, but if you ignore them and walk quickly away they tell you to f*ck off and you get to leave with your money still in your pockets. Overall, not a bad arrangement in my opinion.
After Montmarte we went for a nap to recover from the night before on the train and woke up and went and visted the Arc De Triomphe and walk down the Champs-Elysees. We stopped in a few stores and decided dinner would be too expensive there and headed down to Rue Cler as per Rick Steves recommendation for food and then checked out the Eiffel tower at night. Dinner was very good and under 50 Euro and the tower was stunning. We still have to get to go up to the top but will likely do that sometime before weeks end.
Today consisted of actually going to the top of the Arc De Triomphe with our museum pass (30 Euro each, a very good deal). With the pass we then visited The Louvre's Italian wing and saw the Mona Lisa (very small and kind of dark) and other famous pictures. Better then the Louvre (in my opinion) was the Orangerier and Orsay museums with the impressionists' paintings in them. I really enjoyed those and it was awesome to walk around the corner and see “yet another famous painting”. After killing our feet all day we took the train back to our neighborhood and walked around the red light district and had dinner at a Chinese place. I think we are taking the rest of the evening off and will plan what to see tomorrow. Possibly on the agenda is Versaille or maybe some other museums and attractions in the city. It all depends how busy of a day we want...
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
The Cinque Terre
The Cinque Terre on Italy's riveria is absolutely awesome. It is great to just have a couple days where we have nothing planned and just relax and watch the world go by. We got in yesterday around 5PM and checked into the ocean view room we have at Trattoria Gianni Franzi that is literally built into the side of a cliff in the City of Vernazza. The foyer of the hotel has the walls of the cliff on the side of it. We have a shared bathroom and the hallways are a little noisey in the morning, but it is a great place to stay with a great price. The hotel is at the top of about 50 stairs though so it is kind of challenging at the end of the day and a bottle of wine.
Dinner last night was at the hotels restaurant and it was very good as well. I had some sort of mussle pasta and Rea had the pesto (which was originally started here in the region apparently). We had sardines for an appetizer which were very salty but good. A bottle of house wine finished it off.
Vernazza is a sleepy little village with one road the goes down the the harbor. That is it. There are little shops and food stores as well as awesome views out onto the sea. Don't expect to go here for museums, clubs or night life.
Today we did the hike between Riomaggiore and Vernazza. It took us around 3 hours to do (as the guide said) and Rea took the train home for the last part. The views were stunning the entire way and totally worth the sometimes strenuous portions at the end near Vernazza. The last part into Vernazza was the hardest since it was all stairs up and down and it was about 25C out in the shade. Hiking through the olive groves and hills was break-taking (both literally and figuratively).
After the hike we got back and decided to go for a swim in the harbor where everyone else was sunning on the rocks. The water was just cold enough to make it refreshing and it was clear and waveless. Compared to the fresh water lakes around Calgary, it was great to just be able to float out there and not have to tread water to not drown. There was not too many fish in the water, but every one in a while you would see little fish scoot by and remind you that you were swimming in the Mediterranean Sea.
After the swim and a shower we went and took the train to Monterosso to have dinner at the Belveder restaurant that was highly recommended to us by a few people. The food was fantastic and cheap (for Europe). We had the seafood spaghetti that was enough to feed three people. I also had the stuffed sardines which were surprisingly good and not salty at all.
Anyhow, tomorrow we have another day here before we have to catch a night train to Paris from Milano, so I think we will just check our bags and relax out by the harbor again. Maybe do some tourist shopping...
Ciao!
Dinner last night was at the hotels restaurant and it was very good as well. I had some sort of mussle pasta and Rea had the pesto (which was originally started here in the region apparently). We had sardines for an appetizer which were very salty but good. A bottle of house wine finished it off.
Vernazza is a sleepy little village with one road the goes down the the harbor. That is it. There are little shops and food stores as well as awesome views out onto the sea. Don't expect to go here for museums, clubs or night life.
Today we did the hike between Riomaggiore and Vernazza. It took us around 3 hours to do (as the guide said) and Rea took the train home for the last part. The views were stunning the entire way and totally worth the sometimes strenuous portions at the end near Vernazza. The last part into Vernazza was the hardest since it was all stairs up and down and it was about 25C out in the shade. Hiking through the olive groves and hills was break-taking (both literally and figuratively).
After the hike we got back and decided to go for a swim in the harbor where everyone else was sunning on the rocks. The water was just cold enough to make it refreshing and it was clear and waveless. Compared to the fresh water lakes around Calgary, it was great to just be able to float out there and not have to tread water to not drown. There was not too many fish in the water, but every one in a while you would see little fish scoot by and remind you that you were swimming in the Mediterranean Sea.
After the swim and a shower we went and took the train to Monterosso to have dinner at the Belveder restaurant that was highly recommended to us by a few people. The food was fantastic and cheap (for Europe). We had the seafood spaghetti that was enough to feed three people. I also had the stuffed sardines which were surprisingly good and not salty at all.
Anyhow, tomorrow we have another day here before we have to catch a night train to Paris from Milano, so I think we will just check our bags and relax out by the harbor again. Maybe do some tourist shopping...
Ciao!
Monday, October 6, 2008
Today...
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| From 2008 10 06 cVenice day 2 |
-We took the vaporetto to Murano and found a SWEET hidden bead/jewelery place I really should have spent more money in. If you're in Murano, let me know. I'll Google Map it for you.
-We didn't get off at the right stop at San Marco and instead ended up touring AROUND greater Venice , which was kinda cool in the long run
-I'm not uploading pics tonight, I'm pooped and we're up early again tomorrow on our way to Cinque Terre and I have NOT packed
-We bought a little battery-amped set of speakers for the ipod(s) and are liking the music in our lives already. We have too much tech on this trip, but really don't regret it
-I showed Jon the hotel we stayed at when I was here with the fam about 9 years ago - no wonder Dad was *ahem* shitting a brick as it looks pretty ritzy (I think that trip must have cost my parents nearly 10K, for 13 days in Rome, Florence, and Venice). We didn't have Rick Steve's in our lives, or wikitravel & the internet as a whole, to find otherwise I suppose. And now that we've seen the sheer amount of money it can cost to eat in a restaurant, or anywhere you sit down, we appreciate picnics A LOT.
-Our room looks like a laundry truck spat clothes all over it. I hope at least one of the shirts is dry by morning as I am out of clean ones
-If on a trip where you will be handwashing, get super lightweight and preferably less cotton clothes. They take longer to dry, and wrinkle, and feel stiffer when air-dryed as a result. The towels in this place are like sandpaper because they are strictly air-dryed - I can tell.
-We should have done the laundry this morning instead of this evening. I'll be traveling with damp clothes in my bag, which is more weight on my back. Meh.
-I have no idea how I've been fitting all the stuff that is all over our room into our two bags and a backpack. Phenomenal. Tomorrow we repeat the miracle.
-People with anything on wheels in Venice look like they suffer too much at every bridge and cobblestone - backpacks rule.
-I think they must ship people who can't walk much anymore off island - you see wheelchairs here, but I know it must be a real bitch to get around.
-My fat calves are now fat AND muscular. I should have got to know the stair-master before I left, and I always thought those were crap until I remind myself now what it's like to be a crazy-ass tourist.
-Gelatto rocks. Jon's pistachio kind last night was amazing. It's like ice cream infused with less cream, more KAPOW. Oh yeah.
-There are shops that will fill any measured container with wine for 2 or 3 bucks. We found one (closed at the time on Sunday) but would have made use of that if we were here longer. Locals are all over it.
-I should have brought a mini hair dryer as my head looks like it's attempting ringlets and only dealing out frizz. And I think I found some grey hairs. WTF.
-I will make a point to have a chocolate tomorrow from the chocolatier that is LITERALLY outside our B&B. I think they will make praline chocolates right in front of you and serve it to you, but even if they can't I'm still going to try to have one before we hustle to the train station.
-My regret is not making it back to the Safety/Supply store to buy a Beware of the Dog sign in Italian. And the wheelchair ramp one for my buddy Dean. And the green exit dude that is everywhere. That's my kind of momento, really! (Tobi - if you're reading this, please keep an eye out when you're here next week and bring one back - I'll pay extra.)
-The weather has been fantastic. Who knew it would be 22 in Venice in October. We were almost too hot at some points, hunting for shade. Crazy.
I'm concerned we won't have internet in Cinque Terre, but stay tuned. I'll at least get everything ready to post for when we do :-)
G'night folks!
Sunday, October 5, 2008
Venice - Day Two
Our second day in Venice was the warmest day of the trip. It could have been shorts weather, but they are technically not allowed in the city and I would end up looking like I was from Nebraska or something. It got up to about 20C today with clear skies and little to no wind.
The hotel has included breakfast (nice thing about Europe is that they are not crap like the free breakfasts in the US and Canada) so after that we started the tour with a water bus ride from the train station to San Marco. This took about 45 minutes and we followed along with the Rick Steves book that had a little tour based on it. Overall it was very nice, a little crowded but worth the 12E that it cost to get on the water bus. It is not a gondola, but it was a great experience.
After that, we went to the top of the bell tower at San Marco. We went right up after the hour rang, so we stayed for about 50 minutes waiting for the next bells to ring. The views were spectacular (lots and lots and lots of photos) and it was very relaxing just standing up there and watching the other tourists have a fun time. On the hour, the bells rang and while it was incredibly loud, it wasn't as loud as I thought it would be. I didn't have to cover my ears (years of punk rock does that to you) but it was impressive to be within 2 feet of a 5 ton bell ringing over your head.
After the tower we had lunch of pizza and walked around a bit. We were getting sleepy so we sat down and crowd watched on the square. Technically you are not supposed to eat, sit or do anything fun on the square but not many people follow those rules. I think the Italians are a little full of themselves with all the rules in the city, but I guess they can do as they please as they pay the taxes.
We wanted to go into the Saint Mark's Basilica but Mass was going on. Good discovery though is that if you check your bags down the street you get a skip the line card for the basilica so you don't have to wait for an hour to get in. After waiting a bit until Mass was over, we went in to see the insides. It was quite awesome with all the mosaics of the Byzantine church as well as the different marbles and tiles on the floor. Great place to sneak pictures with a stealth camera. There were some things you can pay to get into, but the main church was free so that is all we did. Rea said she would have liked to have gone to Mass if a choir was playing. I think she must be possessed or something...
Later we went to a wine bar on the Grand Canal that was very good. It was a great location and with the nice weather it was good to sit outside and watch the boats and gondolas float past.
Dinner was a little place down the road that was packed with tourists. Food was good and rather inexpensive for Venice. We sat next to some Americans so we talked politics. This is the common topic when chatting with my fellow Americans abroad. Dinner was spaghetti carbonara with salad, wine and some espresso (tiny cups). They took Mastercard so it was totally worth it. Later we had gelato and more wine that we bought in a store. I think this is the first point on the trip that I have actually felt that I have eaten too much... Which is kind of nice. I also think I have dropped about 5 to 10 pounds from all the walking (seriously).
Tomorrow I think we might go to Murano to see the glass factory. Funny thing about Venice is that it is big and there is a lot to do, you can see the big sites in under a day so at this point I am not sure what we have planned.
The hotel has included breakfast (nice thing about Europe is that they are not crap like the free breakfasts in the US and Canada) so after that we started the tour with a water bus ride from the train station to San Marco. This took about 45 minutes and we followed along with the Rick Steves book that had a little tour based on it. Overall it was very nice, a little crowded but worth the 12E that it cost to get on the water bus. It is not a gondola, but it was a great experience.
After that, we went to the top of the bell tower at San Marco. We went right up after the hour rang, so we stayed for about 50 minutes waiting for the next bells to ring. The views were spectacular (lots and lots and lots of photos) and it was very relaxing just standing up there and watching the other tourists have a fun time. On the hour, the bells rang and while it was incredibly loud, it wasn't as loud as I thought it would be. I didn't have to cover my ears (years of punk rock does that to you) but it was impressive to be within 2 feet of a 5 ton bell ringing over your head.
After the tower we had lunch of pizza and walked around a bit. We were getting sleepy so we sat down and crowd watched on the square. Technically you are not supposed to eat, sit or do anything fun on the square but not many people follow those rules. I think the Italians are a little full of themselves with all the rules in the city, but I guess they can do as they please as they pay the taxes.
We wanted to go into the Saint Mark's Basilica but Mass was going on. Good discovery though is that if you check your bags down the street you get a skip the line card for the basilica so you don't have to wait for an hour to get in. After waiting a bit until Mass was over, we went in to see the insides. It was quite awesome with all the mosaics of the Byzantine church as well as the different marbles and tiles on the floor. Great place to sneak pictures with a stealth camera. There were some things you can pay to get into, but the main church was free so that is all we did. Rea said she would have liked to have gone to Mass if a choir was playing. I think she must be possessed or something...
Later we went to a wine bar on the Grand Canal that was very good. It was a great location and with the nice weather it was good to sit outside and watch the boats and gondolas float past.
Dinner was a little place down the road that was packed with tourists. Food was good and rather inexpensive for Venice. We sat next to some Americans so we talked politics. This is the common topic when chatting with my fellow Americans abroad. Dinner was spaghetti carbonara with salad, wine and some espresso (tiny cups). They took Mastercard so it was totally worth it. Later we had gelato and more wine that we bought in a store. I think this is the first point on the trip that I have actually felt that I have eaten too much... Which is kind of nice. I also think I have dropped about 5 to 10 pounds from all the walking (seriously).
Tomorrow I think we might go to Murano to see the glass factory. Funny thing about Venice is that it is big and there is a lot to do, you can see the big sites in under a day so at this point I am not sure what we have planned.
Saturday, October 4, 2008
One Last thing about Prague
I forgot to mention that we went to the Museum of Communism in Prague on our last day. It is more of an anti-communism museum actually as communism is banned in the country. It has some really neat advertisements and is situated above a McDonalds and next to a casino, which is very ironic (and they use it to their advantage).
Totally go check it out if you are in the city as it had a good overview of communism in Czech and the reactions it created with the people. A very touching video as well about the beginnings and end with the Velvet Revolution in Prague.
Totally go check it out if you are in the city as it had a good overview of communism in Czech and the reactions it created with the people. A very touching video as well about the beginnings and end with the Velvet Revolution in Prague.
Venice - Day One
This morning we flew from Prague to Venice aboard SkyEurope. Luckily we managed to fly with them before they go bankrupt sometime in the near future (as predicted). Our flight got us at the Trevisio airport around 11:30AM and on a bus and on our way to Venice. Arrival in Venice was about an hour later, and due to GPS issues (i.e., couldn't find the street we were looking for) we managed to get to our hotel in about a half hour.
The hotel Al Campaniel is very nice. It is a little place about 10 meters from the canal and is within a 15 minute walk from Piazza San Marco. It has our first phone of the trip, but I am not sure if we will even use it. It also has an air conditioner and about 20 power outlets, which are a hot commodity in Europe apparently. At 70-80E a night, you cannot go wrong in Venice!
Today we bought the museum pass and visited the Doges Palace which was very impressive (very artsy and had a cool weapons section) and a museum called Caorrer that while was OK but was not particularly interesting for my tastes. The Piazza is amazing with huge buildings and lots of interesting architecture. I do notice that it kind of smells like poop water, but I think that really beats Prague's smell of sausages which kind of makes my stomach do flips after the food poisoning incident. Walking to the train to get to the airport this morning nearly had me gagging as we walked by the 24 hour sausage dealers on the Prague strip.
After that we went and had dinner at a touristy little cafe that had fizzy young red wine, alright food and a Billy Bob singing fish on the wall. The fish really made us feel like we were getting the real Venice experience.
Tomorrow we might go for a boat ride, go up the bell tower and do other things that will undoubtedly cost us way too much money.
The hotel Al Campaniel is very nice. It is a little place about 10 meters from the canal and is within a 15 minute walk from Piazza San Marco. It has our first phone of the trip, but I am not sure if we will even use it. It also has an air conditioner and about 20 power outlets, which are a hot commodity in Europe apparently. At 70-80E a night, you cannot go wrong in Venice!
Today we bought the museum pass and visited the Doges Palace which was very impressive (very artsy and had a cool weapons section) and a museum called Caorrer that while was OK but was not particularly interesting for my tastes. The Piazza is amazing with huge buildings and lots of interesting architecture. I do notice that it kind of smells like poop water, but I think that really beats Prague's smell of sausages which kind of makes my stomach do flips after the food poisoning incident. Walking to the train to get to the airport this morning nearly had me gagging as we walked by the 24 hour sausage dealers on the Prague strip.
After that we went and had dinner at a touristy little cafe that had fizzy young red wine, alright food and a Billy Bob singing fish on the wall. The fish really made us feel like we were getting the real Venice experience.
Tomorrow we might go for a boat ride, go up the bell tower and do other things that will undoubtedly cost us way too much money.
Friday, October 3, 2008
Last day in Prague
This morning we slept in a little and got out around 10AM. I had managed to work whatever horror of a stomach bug I managed to contract our of my system so I was less of a drag. We decided to hit the few sites we wanted to see before we left and made off for the Dancing Building.
The Dancing Building is a building that was built in the 1990s over top of a location that was bombed during the Second World War. It was in hopes created to be a centre of culture, but ended up being just another building that companies rent space in. However, it is quite interesting as it is very modern in the this classic city and it kind of looks like two people dancing (the Czechs called it the Fred and Ginger building after Fred Astair and Ginger Rogers). It was cool looking, but definitely not particularly interesting otherwise.
After that we went and purchases our night train to Paris from Vernazza. This involved a few run around the city to find a train reservation service but it was accomplished. We also bought fixings for lunch tomorrow on the plane ride to Venice. On the way home we discovered a train station that was literally half the distance to our flat than the one we were using previously which would have been awesome to find at the beginning of the week!
Lastly, we went to the Jewish Quarter which also happened to be in the same area we were staying. It looked really interesting but the pricing was a bit absurd for us. It would have cost $40 to do the walk through tour which I have to say is the most expensive entrance fee we have found thus far. Sure you get 6 buildings, but unless you have specific roots to the area I would find it hard to say entrance to 5 synagogues and a cemetery as worth the fee. Maybe I am being cheap, but I think they need to drop the price a bit to bring in the travelers that would like to have the experience but cannot afford the higher prices. Guess that will be a next time visit when we are in Prague.
Anyhow, tomorrow we are off to Venice with the hopes of nicer weather and faster Internet! See you there!
Na shledanou!
The Dancing Building is a building that was built in the 1990s over top of a location that was bombed during the Second World War. It was in hopes created to be a centre of culture, but ended up being just another building that companies rent space in. However, it is quite interesting as it is very modern in the this classic city and it kind of looks like two people dancing (the Czechs called it the Fred and Ginger building after Fred Astair and Ginger Rogers). It was cool looking, but definitely not particularly interesting otherwise.
After that we went and purchases our night train to Paris from Vernazza. This involved a few run around the city to find a train reservation service but it was accomplished. We also bought fixings for lunch tomorrow on the plane ride to Venice. On the way home we discovered a train station that was literally half the distance to our flat than the one we were using previously which would have been awesome to find at the beginning of the week!
Lastly, we went to the Jewish Quarter which also happened to be in the same area we were staying. It looked really interesting but the pricing was a bit absurd for us. It would have cost $40 to do the walk through tour which I have to say is the most expensive entrance fee we have found thus far. Sure you get 6 buildings, but unless you have specific roots to the area I would find it hard to say entrance to 5 synagogues and a cemetery as worth the fee. Maybe I am being cheap, but I think they need to drop the price a bit to bring in the travelers that would like to have the experience but cannot afford the higher prices. Guess that will be a next time visit when we are in Prague.
Anyhow, tomorrow we are off to Venice with the hopes of nicer weather and faster Internet! See you there!
Na shledanou!
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Thursday in Prague
Well the day didn't start off well - as while I was uploading photos between 1-2am, Jon was regurgitating Wednesday's meals/liquids with a vengeance. I personally believe it was the chicken he had for lunch in Kutna Hora, or else I would certainly have been ill as well. I was paranoid about our tubed mayo, but I guess it wasn't the problem!
Here, however, are some pictures we took last night:
So I figured I wouldn't set the alarm. Indeed it was 11am when Jon finally stirred. The trooper that he is, dragged his exhausted butt out of bed. We stopped at the bakery next door (location, location, location!) on our way to the tram to find the tower on the hill that resembles a mini Eiffel tower. While a LOT smaller, because of it's placement on the hill south of the Castle it has nearly the same vantage hight as the tower in Paris.
To get up the hill there are three options - climb (30+ minutes), tram it to a few blocks north, or take the funicular (!?) up the hill. I am sure I've been on one before, but can't remember, so being on a tram that is literally built at a 45 degree angle and has sitting areas layered like stairs was a cool little ride. It came included with our metro ticket (a godsend getting the 5-day pass, btw). Once at the top of the hill, we strolled through some gardens to the tower itself.
With Jon being so wiped out, we didn't climb the 400 steps to the top of the tower. So, we sat initially outside at the base of the tower to have a snack (I had cut up some apple and brought nuts/raisin mix)but then moved inside when the wind piked up. Wanting something hot and yet not too intense, I ordered us a couple of teas. The experience of ordering these two teas reminded me that occasionally customer service is a lip-service concept here, as I received two mini (thin) beer cups of boiling water, two strawberry cream tea bags (I didn't get a choice), and a lot of grumpy looks when I paid with what equates to about a $30 bill and didn't have anything smaller.... the cups teetered in their unhealthy plastic thin-ness, the tea was fruity (neither Jon and I really like fruit teas), and the atmosphere was limited.
Maybe if I had said 'Dobre-den' first thing I might have been able to crack a smile out of the depressed looking 20 yr old girl at the cash, but I've got my doubts. I have, however, noticed improved service overall if I make my attempts at hello, please, and thank you in Czech.
Jon barely lasted. I escorted him home, took his money, and went shopping. :-)
I got some fantastic flat/lightweight souveniers, and a couple of trinkets for friends/family. I found the fruit/trinket market and was able to barter my way into a few extra things too.
My priority for the souvenirs has been to try to get Czech made goods. Some are German, but the coolest stuff is Czech. I've noticed that it's a Canadian/American thing to keep the 'made in China' stickers on things, so I've made special effort in light of a different 'made in' system here.
My stroll around the old town by myself was made a little more intense/exciting by witnessing a small riot by some Croatian soccer/football fans. Someone told me initially they were Nazi's, so I was thoroughly intimidated by the 200 drunk men that were being followed/watched/cordoned by riot police including full gear/helmets/rifles. It was only once I got back from the dinner run (Greek for me, McDicks for Jon) that I found mention of it all on the internet news. I saw at least 100 of these guys getting processed/arrested, which I found silly for them as those guys are bound to miss their precious football match ;-)
So while I was nervous, especially when some Prague Sparta fans tossed firecrackers into the group (and bolted SO quickly down the street right after) it was just football. Thank goodness. Still - what a weird thing to get so violently passionate about. As Jon said, at least it wasn't politics or Nazi's that were causing the ruckus.
I rather enjoyed bopping around with my ipod as a bit of a solo tourist today. I do wish Jon wasn't so wiped out (he's spent the whole day sleeping except for early this afternoon) and am hoping he's up for the last day of full out tourism tomorrow.
And now I go to switch the laundry out...
-Rea
PS - here's a shout-out to the office, and Nicole as it's her birthday today. Yay Nic!
Here, however, are some pictures we took last night:
So I figured I wouldn't set the alarm. Indeed it was 11am when Jon finally stirred. The trooper that he is, dragged his exhausted butt out of bed. We stopped at the bakery next door (location, location, location!) on our way to the tram to find the tower on the hill that resembles a mini Eiffel tower. While a LOT smaller, because of it's placement on the hill south of the Castle it has nearly the same vantage hight as the tower in Paris.
To get up the hill there are three options - climb (30+ minutes), tram it to a few blocks north, or take the funicular (!?) up the hill. I am sure I've been on one before, but can't remember, so being on a tram that is literally built at a 45 degree angle and has sitting areas layered like stairs was a cool little ride. It came included with our metro ticket (a godsend getting the 5-day pass, btw). Once at the top of the hill, we strolled through some gardens to the tower itself.
 |
| From Old Town Wednesdy Night & "Eiffel" Tower Thursday afternoon |
With Jon being so wiped out, we didn't climb the 400 steps to the top of the tower. So, we sat initially outside at the base of the tower to have a snack (I had cut up some apple and brought nuts/raisin mix)but then moved inside when the wind piked up. Wanting something hot and yet not too intense, I ordered us a couple of teas. The experience of ordering these two teas reminded me that occasionally customer service is a lip-service concept here, as I received two mini (thin) beer cups of boiling water, two strawberry cream tea bags (I didn't get a choice), and a lot of grumpy looks when I paid with what equates to about a $30 bill and didn't have anything smaller.... the cups teetered in their unhealthy plastic thin-ness, the tea was fruity (neither Jon and I really like fruit teas), and the atmosphere was limited.
Maybe if I had said 'Dobre-den' first thing I might have been able to crack a smile out of the depressed looking 20 yr old girl at the cash, but I've got my doubts. I have, however, noticed improved service overall if I make my attempts at hello, please, and thank you in Czech.
Jon barely lasted. I escorted him home, took his money, and went shopping. :-)
I got some fantastic flat/lightweight souveniers, and a couple of trinkets for friends/family. I found the fruit/trinket market and was able to barter my way into a few extra things too.
My priority for the souvenirs has been to try to get Czech made goods. Some are German, but the coolest stuff is Czech. I've noticed that it's a Canadian/American thing to keep the 'made in China' stickers on things, so I've made special effort in light of a different 'made in' system here.
My stroll around the old town by myself was made a little more intense/exciting by witnessing a small riot by some Croatian soccer/football fans. Someone told me initially they were Nazi's, so I was thoroughly intimidated by the 200 drunk men that were being followed/watched/cordoned by riot police including full gear/helmets/rifles. It was only once I got back from the dinner run (Greek for me, McDicks for Jon) that I found mention of it all on the internet news. I saw at least 100 of these guys getting processed/arrested, which I found silly for them as those guys are bound to miss their precious football match ;-)
So while I was nervous, especially when some Prague Sparta fans tossed firecrackers into the group (and bolted SO quickly down the street right after) it was just football. Thank goodness. Still - what a weird thing to get so violently passionate about. As Jon said, at least it wasn't politics or Nazi's that were causing the ruckus.
I rather enjoyed bopping around with my ipod as a bit of a solo tourist today. I do wish Jon wasn't so wiped out (he's spent the whole day sleeping except for early this afternoon) and am hoping he's up for the last day of full out tourism tomorrow.
And now I go to switch the laundry out...
-Rea
PS - here's a shout-out to the office, and Nicole as it's her birthday today. Yay Nic!
Jonny ate something he shouldn't have.
So today we're off to a late start. I might have to leave him here and be a solo tourist today - he's exhausted from the 'ab workout' that certainly cleared out his system!
Wish him well, peeps.
Wish him well, peeps.
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
Kutna Hora
This morning we got up early (well 9AM) and took the train to Kutna Hora. Kutna Hora is apparently a quintessential "small town" in Czech and it also home to the bone ossuary in Sedlec that was the whole reason we started planning this trip to begin with. I have to say it was pretty cool.
Initially or time table was set back as I got the station outside of town mixed up with the main station and we too a scenic metro ride around the city. The town of Kutna Hora is very small and pretty and had a couple sites that put it on the UNESCO list (houses, gothic cathedral, etc). We went to the bone ossuary where at least 40,000 human remains are stored in various artistic approaches and then to the cathedral in town which was HUGE. St. Barbara's' church had many beautiful stained glass windows as well as ancient frescos from the middle ages. We had to skip the silver mine museum and mine tour as we went to drink beer instead at a little restaurant that had great food for a reasonable price. We have many great photos that will be up when we get the faster Intertubes again. Would definitely recommend this to anyone who is in Prague as it provides a view into the smaller less metropolitan side of the Czech Republic.
After we finished with the town we got back on the train and met Erin and Kenny from Hawaii. They are a nice couple that have been traveling across Europe for the last 2.5 months and are on their final week. I guess going to back to Hawaii is probably not the worst thing that could happen to you. We bought some beers from the store and sat with the at the top of Wencelas square in the New Town of Prague and drank them while people watching. It was a lot of fun.
Tomorrow is more Prague touring. I think we might go to the big park and take photos of the Eiffel Tower they have there to add to Rea's series. Maybe hit the bobsled slide if weather and funding permits. I would like to go to the Terezin concentration camp that is north of the city but I don't think we have time for it.
Initially or time table was set back as I got the station outside of town mixed up with the main station and we too a scenic metro ride around the city. The town of Kutna Hora is very small and pretty and had a couple sites that put it on the UNESCO list (houses, gothic cathedral, etc). We went to the bone ossuary where at least 40,000 human remains are stored in various artistic approaches and then to the cathedral in town which was HUGE. St. Barbara's' church had many beautiful stained glass windows as well as ancient frescos from the middle ages. We had to skip the silver mine museum and mine tour as we went to drink beer instead at a little restaurant that had great food for a reasonable price. We have many great photos that will be up when we get the faster Intertubes again. Would definitely recommend this to anyone who is in Prague as it provides a view into the smaller less metropolitan side of the Czech Republic.
 |
| From Kutna Hora |
After we finished with the town we got back on the train and met Erin and Kenny from Hawaii. They are a nice couple that have been traveling across Europe for the last 2.5 months and are on their final week. I guess going to back to Hawaii is probably not the worst thing that could happen to you. We bought some beers from the store and sat with the at the top of Wencelas square in the New Town of Prague and drank them while people watching. It was a lot of fun.
Tomorrow is more Prague touring. I think we might go to the big park and take photos of the Eiffel Tower they have there to add to Rea's series. Maybe hit the bobsled slide if weather and funding permits. I would like to go to the Terezin concentration camp that is north of the city but I don't think we have time for it.
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